Best Jeans For Denim Purists - Part 1

List of some of the best denim brands and their respective models out there. This may not be a comprehensive list nor would it be a "list for all" kind as different people do prefer different stuffs for most of the time.

There are numerous number of denim brands out there varying from the country of origin, the denim used, the cut, dyeing methods and the dye itself, artisanal outcomes, the historically important ones so on. Generally, Japanese denim brands are considered among the best in the scene. Then there are many Italian manufacturers; both from the haute couture as well as some niche ones, and there are couple of recognizable names from Sweden and finally US, birth place of the first historical pair jeans, which was manufactured by Levi's in 1873, the famous brown Duck Canvas jeans. Levi's Nevada jeans are the oldest known pairs which were produced around 1880. These originals were found down a mineshaft in the Nevada desert and thus the name. The 1906 San Francisco earthquake and subsequent fires destroyed Levi Strauss & Co.'s headquarters and two factories and the older jeans were lost for ever.

Anyway here goes the list of some of the best denim in the industry and of course personal preferences can be observed in many cases.

1. RBY45RPM Jomon:-

The epitome of Japanese craftmanship, quality of the denim used, the dye which is Natural Japanese plant indigo called Aizome or Ai and the whole manufacturing process which calls for extreme intricacy. The cotton used comes from Zimbabwe, considerd to be one of the best and rare, as it can be harvested only twice a year. The Aizome denim thread is dyed 24 times by hand. The shuttle looms used for the production of these repros are slowed down significantly in order to achieve a tactile and roughhewn quality to the fabric. The textile comes out perfectly flawed, revealing a deeply hued and textured denim designed to grow more intimately beautiful with time. Jomon is considered to be a modern cut having a slim silhouette.

However, it'd cost a fortune to get one of these beauties, they are priced at $864.00 in US. It can be bought from their online store as well.

http://rby45rpm.com/shopping/show_product.php?product_ID=37/Jomon+Denim

2. RBY45RPM Sorahiko:-

There is not much of a difference between 45RPM Jomon and Sorahiko, except that they are dyed with Synthetic Indigo compared to Jomon's Ai. Possibily the production rates are higher than that of Jomon since the shuttle looms are set at a higher speed in the case of Sorahikos. Earlier Sorahikos are full cut one with a green hue to them. From 2010 onwards the cut has changed to a more appealing one with a slim profile and the 2011 versions are even slimmer and the dye used is different which has got a deep blue color.

45RPM basic line, impeccable quality nonetheless.

http://rby45rpm.com/shopping/show_product.php?product_ID=127/Sorahiko+2011

The all new Sorahiko price in US is $368.00

 3. Joe McCoy 901:

Going for war model 901 is a traditional, anti-fit cuts, which were normal for that time period, WW2 style repros.The kind of fit that is similar to a Warehouse 1001 or Denime XX. They  Their denim is unreal and they could simply be the best in the 13-15 oz range. The denim is amazing. Soft and pliable, and starting to really show some roping texture in the weave. The original 901 denim has a strong vertical falling quality. Japanese people call it structural denim. But I love the details and the silhouette. these jeans are tough! Their denim seems fairly "compact" compared to other repros... from the few pics that I've seen, their denim is not as irregular and slubby as, say, Samurai nor does it seem very hairy. However, their indigo seems very, very deep in color. I hope the fading quality of the denim would justify the price. Price wise, I think its up there with Evisu No.1's as well as the original Denime XX, but I think you get a bit better hardware and construction. Generally,the denim comes oversized so I suggest to size down one. They shrink quite a lot after soaking. The price is steep (26250 yen), especially since 905 and 906 are sold at a much more reasonable price range.

http://www.realmccoys.co.jp/

They can be purchased from

http://trial.take5jeans.com/shopping.asp?view=brand&item_id=11

http://www.j-e-a-n-s.net/overseas/00799.html

http://www.c-king.jp/mccoypages/mccoyhome.html

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/porkys/item/1135354/

http://www.beat-japan.co.jp/SHOP/JMC-DPT-MP9101.html

http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/threeeight/a5b8a1bca5.html

You would probably need a middleman on this, they don't ship overseas.

US stockists

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&manufacturer_id=54&Itemid=62

In Europe

http://www.superdenim.co.uk/realmccoys-denim.asp (it's bit pricey)

http://www.dc4.de/ Local shop in Berlin

And you might want to see how nicely they can fade, check out

http://jeanspavilion.web.fc2.com/OTAKARAHAISHAKUichiMcCOY901.htm

http://denim-gallery.heavy.jp/the-realmccoys_joemccoy/901z.html

4. Toys McCoy Lee McQueen model:_

McHill Overalls are much sought after by ubernerds in the denim scene. The denim line is known as Toys McCoy   from the legendary Joe McCoy lineage. The quality control is so consistent, in line with the originals. The denim is so juicy and the stitching and hardware is extremely robust. McHill products are more difficult to get hold of, as such, not many people know about them. These are some of the finest garments available in the niche Japanese denim market.

McQueen model is cut into a slim silhouette. It's priced at US$408.87.

http://www.toys-mccoy.com/

http://trial.take5jeans.com/shopping.asp?view=product&product_id=5244

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/klax-on/c/0000000209/

5. Five Easy Pieces aka 5EP:-

5EP are one of the most under rated or lesser known denim brand among all those Japanese brands available in the niche market. Five Easy Pieces (5EP) was founded and designed by an American couple. Although a US brand, their jeans are made in Japan. The denim is soft and thick and the dye work is top notch, very high quality jeans indeed. Generally they are half a size big in the waist. These are not slim jeans nor are they loose, they are just about the perfect cut for most people. Price is also fairly reasonable for a product of this standard. Jeans are made to order and one can drop a line thru their site for that.

http://www.denimafia.com/5ep.html

6. Studio D'Artisan XXX-28

Only 161 pairs of these limited edition are made available during their first run. The XXX-28 is made with Zimbabwe Cotton, same one used for Jomon and a special intense rich dye from Tokushima in Japan. Slightly heavy 15 oz denim compared to the standard 13.75-14oz of most other models. The silhouette is more appealing than it's cousin, the XXX-26 series which run quite loose through the legs.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/frisbee/item/10001718/

7. Fullcount 1108:-

Full Count 1108 features the straight hipped cut with a slightly flaring hem. The 13.75oz denim is really beautiful rich in texture and compact that after wear it feels light, like a breeze all over. The denim is known for it's vertical fading properties. Full Count is into small details such as curved back pocket openings, varying thread sizes, stitch counts and colours. They also have selvedge on the coin pocket, which is not really exclusive to Fullcount though. One would never be disappointed by buying multiples of Full Count denim since you never know when they stops the productiion just like Joe McCoy or chanding of hands like in the case of Denime.

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/moveclothing/item/j044/

8. Warehouse Duckdigger 1920 original jeans:-

These are seriously beautiful jeans with multitude of details and extraordinary stitch patterns. The below one are the original Duckdiggers from circa 2006, no longer made and sold out everywhere. Spots reinforced crotch, kind of innovative design among other Japanese repros. One of the most sought after jeans from the whole Warehouse staple and pretty much their top of the line denim.

Warehouse has produced many varients of Duck Diggers over the years. The demand is so high that, Duck Diggers are almost all sold out as soon as they hit the market. Chech out

http://global.rakuten.com/en/search?pf=&pt=&f=0&fs=0&vm=2&sm=1&st=&tl=502538&k=Duck+Digger

9. LVC 201XX Valencia Street:-

These were some of the last Levis to be produced from Levis' legendary Valencia Street factory in San Francisco. The facility was shut down soon after that which makes this jeans quite rare. Cone Mill was the denim supplier and this one is notorious for its shrinking. 555 stamped on the top button, which is a Valencia Street product identification. One can see all the usual repro details in this one as well, like the selvedge denim, button fly, chain-stitched hem, selvedge coin pocket, single stitch back pockets, cinch back and belt loops, hidden copper rivets plus one-sided Big 'E' tab, two-horse leather patch which only Levi's are allowed to reproduce after the lawsuit . The 12.5 oz XX denim has a lustre and feel unlike anything else from other LVC models. 

10. Nudie Regular Ralf in Veggie Indigo Dry Selvage:-

Nudie RR Veggie Indigo are considered ambrosial piece among Nudie fans worldwide. The color is "Aqua", rare among natural indigo dyed jeans, which resembles Sugarcane Edo AI line but with a more modern slight boot cut. 

From  http://www.denimbaronline.com 

Natural indigo is perhaps the oldest dye known — the oldest fragments of cloth are dyed with it. It is a dye known to all cultures of the world. Natural indigo is also one of the "fastest" dyes known. It was the original dye of the "Levi's" blue jeans, a trademark color for durability. The Regular Ralf is the basic boot cut fit for Nudie Jeans.  Mid rise with just enough breathing room through out the thighs and hips, going to a generous boot cut opening.  Extremely rare vegetable indigo uses pure indigo coloring extracted from vegetables rather then the use of sythetic dyes.  This, complied with Selvage denim, creates one of the most superior pair of jeans on the market.  100% Cotton  Price: $499.00

In all fairness and respect for the natural indigo dye, RR Veggies would be a difficult call if you are a tall person. They shrink too much after the first wash and the 34" inseam does not seems to help the cause either. Mine are kept in the drawer ever after the first wash :(

Notes: Arguably Osaka and Daikanyama in Japan are the best places to visit to see the stuffs and there are lots and lots of shops dedicated for each brands and there are mixed brands shops as well. It's a heaven for any denim aficionado.

Many of the models in this list are natural indigo dyed which fades very slowly and not a dark, fast fading, high contrast kind of denim that most people tend to like...

Using chain stitch, your train of jeans is fading wind. Thanks Ryu :)